| ZOOM:The CP9XX cameras have an indicated 6 step optical zoom, and a graph on the LCD monitor that shows little information, so I made a chart that shows the 35mm equivalent focal length at each step (including the aux lenses). | |
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Aux Lenses: The CoolPix 9XX wide angle WC-E24, fisheye (big) FC-E8, X2 tele converter TC-E2 and the TC-E3 tele aux. lenses are compatible with the 9XX cameras<> The WC-E68 wide angle was created for the CP-5000, but attaches to the 9XX cameras with a UR-E7 28-46mm stepup ring ($13). See bottom image. <>The camera lens has a focal length of 38 to 115 mm (35mm eq.). The wide angle aux. will change it to 24 to 72mm, the fisheye to 8 to 24 mm , the X2 tele to 104 to 230 mm, the X3 tele to 255 to 345mm and the WC-E68 to 25 to 81mm. <> The fisheye image is circular at 8mm and fills the viewer top-to-bottom. At 14-24 mm it completely fills the viewer . |
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Telescope: Sharpshooter 8x32 by CrystalVue.attaches to my CP-995 with a 28-37 step up ring. Provides 8X image magnification, but must be focused manually. Image is sharp enough for me, but not as good as my TC-E3. Works in all zoom ranges, except has slight corner clipping at minimum zoom. |
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Focus Assist: To correct the CP-995 low light focus problem I use a key chain laser from Discount Lasers ($10). The laser is screw mounted to the 0.02" stainless bracket which is velcro mounted to the bottom of the lens compartment. Four furnished hologram filter attachments disperses the laser light and eliminates my eye damage concerns. A push button on the laser will energize it until focus is locked. It can then provide flash pictures in total darkness. <> The second image shows another design, for the 950 and 990 cameras that mounts on the hump on top of the lens compartment. <> Third image shows CP-4500 instl. |
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Flash:
The 9XX cameras have an external flash sync terminal
which uses Speedlight SB-22s ($130) with an SK-E900
adapter ($59). The SB-22s red auto focus
light isn't used by the 9XX cameras. The SK-E900
adapter comes with an 11 inch cord, so for off camera
work I cut the cord in two and installed hand made plugs
so I could use an extension cord. The second image shows a hand made compact swing support bracket. CP-4500 Flash: Shown is Stratos flip bracket B&H SIFBC $35 and Promaster flash from Porter Camera and a module from Camera Gallery. Aperture must be set in flash and camera. |
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Slide Copy: To copy my old slides I use my CP-995 camera, ES-E28 slide holder and a 4x5" Tundra 837 light box ($17 jackscamera). I set the camera to macro and adjust image size with zoom buttons. This combination works very well together. ( I gave the ES-E28 to my son and now I use a Nikon E5000 lens hood to position the camera over the slide. Works well enough. ) |
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Negative Copy: 4x5 negative illuminated with a 10" Tundra light box. Photographed with Nikon 4500. Inverted in photo editor. |
| Size comparison, scanned 35mm compared to the CP-950/990. The dpi image size sent to the printer is determined by how the prints will be used. I prefer 300 dpi for hand held and 200 dpi for larger wall mounted prints. | |
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Dark Images: Most digital cameras underexpose every image I think to prevent losing highlight detail. When the LCD monitor displays a clear and sharp image I believe it can be edited to produce a good print. The center image shows Picture Publisher 6.0 brightness correction ,and the right image also shows contrast correction. |
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White Balance: Top image was shot in sunlight with the camera set to fluorescent. The bottom image was shot in fluorescent lighting with the camera set to daylight. Corrections are shown in both to correct white balance. Edit notations refer to Picture Publisher 6.0 color corrections. |
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CP-950,990 Cable Release: Only needed to control the shutter, so I built my own cable release bracket. Used .06 aluminum and a cable thread socket from an old camera. The Bracket plugs into the carrying strap slot. Has worked for years. |
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CP-990 Door Latch Fix: The battery compartment door latches are metal on plastic. I was very careful of mine because of that, but it finally gave out. My camera is old and not used very much so I decided to build a retaining bracket to hold the door closed. I made a few out of cardboard until I found what I wanted and then transferred it to 1/8 " aluminum. The feet on the bottom allow the camera to sit upright on the shelf. * * * * I took Tom's advice and modified my camera. I drilled a .073" hole into the front of the battery compartment where the plastic tab broke off. Then forced a small screw through the hole to serve as a door latch retainer. Then used a Dremel cut off wheel to cut off the excess length. Retouched it with a sharpie just like Toms. Thanks again Tom. |
